Advanced search
Couldn't Connect.

Living Gentlemanly

Tails, You Win — part 1 of 4

Duke Ellington
Duke Ellington
By Joe DiPietro

I was engaged in the very inelegant process of Whinking a half dozen Van Kissel 16s and regrouting my bathtub, dressed to the nines in run-down Rockports and old corduroy trousers with a midday stubble on my phiz like sand-finish plaster. I certainly didn't look the part of the Gentleman Retrophile. Didn't quite feel it, either, until I found salvation in a likely place: TCM. Catching the 1935 Astaire-Rogers romp "Top Hat" halfway through, it dawned on me: If I'm going to write about something that catches the essence of civilized fun, of retro elegance, it's that suit at the top of the gentleman's wardrobe, the thing than makes the humblest among us look like a movie hero, that undisputed monarch of all things sartorial—top hat, white tie, and tails.

Lest you think I've completely snapped my cap, that a tailcoat is something you'll never wear, that it's not worth the investment, that in this day of coarsened sensibilities, you just can't get away with it, let me assure you to the contrary. You're a retrophile. You already know more about how to look good than the overwhelming majority of men. And, by and large, most women these days still have an appetite for a man who can look, well, romantic. When you're in tails, you look as romantic as any man can ever hope to look. Your slightest movement or gesture will speak of moonlight and magnolias. And, frankly, you'll feel like you're built of neon. Can you carry it off? Undoubtedly.

First, the basics: when can you wear white tie? According to the May 1939 issue of Esquire, the start date is October 15. (The end date would have been Memorial Day.) And, according to the Amy Vanderbilt Complete Book of Etiquette, white tie is for things like head-of-state dinners, debutante balls, diplomatic affairs, and the like. Just so—and how fascinatingly irrelevant.

Fred Astaire
Fred Astaire
You can wear white tie whenever the occasion calls for black tie and you can get away with having some fun. If it's a professional event (your business), don't jump up to white tie. Similarly, if it's a wedding, and black tie has been requested, wear black tie, not white. And, of course, if it's a private party and your host is in black tie, don't do white tie. (A gentleman never outshines his host—that's bad form.) But if it's a night of fun and dancing, and formal is expected, by all means wear white tie! From the beginning of October to mid-May, you can wear tails. New Year's Eve is a natural.

To do it right is actually a bit easier than you might think, but there are some things that you just can't compromise on. We'll tackle the outfit one piece at a time over the next few months, so keep checking back and you'll be ready to strut your stuff before the leaves turn.

The Shirt

This is really the linchpin that holds the outfit together. You need an honest-to-goodness collarless pique-front shirt. You can't substitute a pleated, soft-collar-attached shirt from black tie wear. Turned collars (they call them "laydown" these days) are just too informal. Pique shirts with attached wing collars are available, but they won't look right. Collarless pique shirts are still available through Brooks Brothers. The plus side is that you can wear this shirt with your black tie outfit, and even with formal daywear. You need to fully starch (undiluted liquid starch applied with a paint roller) only the cuffs and pique halves of the front.

Frank Sinatra
Frank Sinatra
These shirts have horizontal buttonholes on the inside half of the front. You can sew a little loop of thread in the middle of each of these buttonholes to keep your shirt studs secure. There is a vertical loop on the back of the shirt. The tie goes through this, as do the top tabs of the vest. The shirt also has what appears to be a pocket to nowhere on the side. This is so you can reach in behind the pique front and pull the shafts of your studs through. If you can't manage this, let your wife or girlfriend do it. It's a good excuse to have a woman's hand inside your shirt, always a pleasurable experience.

The Collar

If you get the Brooks Brothers shirt, it will come supplied with a collar. But at about 1 5/8" in height, this collar is a little on the low side for wear with tails. (It's perfect for black tie, though.) New and Lingwood in England still make a correct 2 1/4" height collar for white tie (the "Grafton Deep"). Detachable collars are extraordinarily stiff—they have to be to look right. But don't let this scare you. Once it's on, it'll be comfortable enough. Since getting these collars laundered requires sending them either to The French Hand Laundry in Pasadena or the Barker Group in London, take a tip on keeping them clean: Put a strip of first-aid adhesive tape inside the collar. It will stay perfectly clean for quite a few wearings.

That's it for now, fellas. The rest is familiar, and easy enough to find and piece together, but be sure to check beck for helpful tips and details.

Cheers!


Check out the other articles in this series...

Part 2—We hope you haven't been out wearing naught but the elegantly arranged shirt and collar described last month. This month, at least you can answer the door when the room service waiter knocks.

Part 3—We're going beyond the nines and putting together that most regal of formal attire, white tie & tails. By now you've had a chance to get the basics, so without further dalliance, it's time to accessorize.

Part 4—As formal season approaches, we end this primer on the pinnacle of gentlemanly attire. By now you should have most of the accoutrements of gentility, and these last few details will finish the job admirably.